ITAA Proceedings 2001 Fiber Arts

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© 2001, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
ITAA Proceedings, #59 – www.itaaonline.org
2001 Proceedings Kansas City, MO, USA
CATHEDRAL
Jean L. Parsons and J. R. Campbell
Iowa State University, Ames, IA 50011
The objectives of this project were to push the limits of digital technology through integration of
garment shape with digital imagery and to experiment with previously untested fabrics. The
initial design inspiration came from a desire to integrate sheer and opaque fabrics and geometric
garment shapes with photographs of stained glass windows taken in Yorkminster Cathedral. The
intent was to layer sheer printed organza over imagery printed on a silk "linen." The form of the
coat was designed to mimic cathedral arches and spires. Initial design development began with
traditional sketching from both designers. The final design sketch had sheer drapes layered over
a long robe that allowed variability in how the piece might be worn or hung.
The artists examined fit, drape, and shape of pattern pieces, as well as the digital images, to
determine which areas of the garment would have repeated imagery and which would have
singular, placed objects. Repeated imagery was chosen for the sheer silk organza draped pieces
and a single window image for the coat front and back. Additional draped pieces that extend
from the front hem can be attached either to the sleeve or at center back. A stretched window
image was incorporated onto these. The full-scale garment was then printed directly to fabric on
a wide-format digital printer for textiles. Some problems arose due to color matching from the
two fabrics used. The collaborators modified the final garment design by adding a bold-colored
lining and accent pieces on the collar and cuffs as a means of grounding the other colors. The
resulting garment demonstrates the level of complexity and artistic expression that can be
achieved through the application of digital technology.