ITAA Proceedings 2000 Design Competition

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© 2000, International Textile and Apparel Association, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
ITAA Proceedings, #57 – www.itaaonline.org
2000 Proceedings Cincinnati, OH USA
DOGWOOD IN GREEN AND GOLD
Tammy Abbey
Central Washington University, Ellensburg, WA 98926
The purpose in creating this piece is to design an elegant garment through the combination of
two very different techniques, metalsmithing and sewing. This design was inspired by extensive
study in both metalworking and sewing and by blooming dogwood. The garment can be
described as a dark green, fully lined dress in a polyester crepe satin. It is designed with princess
lines and a gold charmeuse godet in the back. The dress is strapless and supported by the metal
"lace." The "lace" is formed with brass blossoms and leaves that wrap the shoulders and overlap
the front and the back of the dress. Brass blossoms also accent the godet. Construction began
with an original pattern which was hand drafted. A muslin test garment was sewn, fitted and used
to adjust the pattern. The main body of the dress was sewn and an invisible zipper was installed.
A godet was sewn into the back. A polyester lining was sewn and then added to the dress. After
the body of the dress was completed, the metal work began. Blossoms and leaves were cut from
sheet brass. Then each was individually chased (hand shaped with the use of hammers and tools.)
The pieces were given a copper patina (coloring) and brass brushed to a matte golden color. A
dress form was used to assemble a base web of brass chain onto which the blossoms were sewn
into place with thread and wire. Two blossoms and chain were added in the back to accent the
godet and to contain it. The back snap was hidden beneath a brass flower.